Fish hobbyists may experience their aquarium being affected by sudden movements that cause some or all of its inhabitants to escape overnight, which is usually an indicator that something is amiss; too cold or too warm water, not enough oxygen, or perhaps there are environmental issues which have caused your fish to leave your tank and escape into space are just some possibilities that could cause this phenomenon.
Fish are known to jump out of their tanks to escape predators or search for sustenance, while some species even do this to escape aggressive tank mates.
Researchers have studied this behavior and discovered that guppies can make leaps several times longer than their body length. Furthermore, researchers noted that these fish often back up before leaping in order to gain speed and momentum - likely to ensure they safely make it into the air and splash back down safely into their tank after taking flight. It has even been speculated that this behavior serves an additional purpose, possibly protecting them from parasites as they splash back down again into water.
Your fish is less likely to leave its aquarium when there are plenty of hiding spaces and enough swimming room available for them. Most tanks may be too small, causing fish to feel cramped and uncomfortable, leading them to escape by jumping out.
Water mites in an aquarium are not harmful; in fact they actually aid the nitrogen cycle while providing tasty food source for small fish. If their population starts growing out of control then that could be a telltale sign something's amiss with your tank.
Rarely is it even possible to spot these tiny creatures; they usually move about in groups, hiding behind substrate or plants. But if one or more do show up in your tank, don't panic! Just observe and don't disturb.
Your fish should be delighted when you discover them; they're part of their natural ecosystem! Most aquarists take great pleasure in seeing healthy populations of copepods and amphipods inhabit their tanks - the closer your tank comes to mimicking its original environment, the happier and healthier its inhabitants will be.
These aquatic creatures don't rely on gills to breathe and can survive with very low oxygen concentrations, instead absorbing it throughout their bodies surface area. Furthermore, they can tolerate various degrees of pollution in water sources.
Nature provides aquatic invertebrates such as Hygrobates with an effective method for colonizing new bodies of water: by parasitizing other aquatic invertebrates such as chironomid larvae. Certain species of Hygrobates take advantage of bottom-feeding cyprinids' foraging activity to gain access to hidden chironomid larvae hidden inside sand tubes or hidden from view by using foraging as bait for their foraging activity.
Some chironomid larvae possess an exoskeleton that water mites find difficult to penetrate, forcing them to dig deeper into the sand in order to reach the larvae; this form of predation is known as active penetration.
Aquarium hobbyists know there are no fish who eat poop; although less-informed pet store associates might tell you otherwise. Poop is only expelled after extracting nutrients and energy from its food source and expulsion by excreting as waste product called feces which contains the same ammonia that the original release contained; over time this waste biodegrades to return this ammonia back into the water.
Coral-eating parrotfish feed on the algae found on coral reefs, but even this high-quality, low-cost source of nutrition does not provide all their required micronutrients. Therefore, these parrotfish supplement their diet with poop which contains abundant micronutrients and also includes the vital symbiotic dinoflagellate algae needed by coral to survive.
Hannah Rempel, a Ph.D. student at the University of Texas Marine Science Institute and co-author of a recent study co-authored by Hannah Rempel demonstrates that coral-eating fishes--known as corallivores--are filled with beneficial microbes that maintain coral health. This discovery disproves long-held beliefs that these fish were harming reef structures by eating detritus and bushy algae; rather, this opens doors for using transplanted fecal material to revive stressed-out corals affected by coral bleaching phenomena. Read the article published at Nature Communications here.
Schooling fish are an innate, natural behavior and aquarium owners often place groups into their tanks to achieve an authentic and animated aesthetic. While this is a good strategy, it's essential that aquarium owners understand why schooling fish behave this way - schooling provides protection from predators while finding food, as well as making mating easier and creating larger schools which may fend off predation more effectively.
Another motivation for fish schools to form is reduced water resistance and energy savings when swimming as part of a group. Swimming together reduces resistance because each individual fish follows in step with those ahead, effectively "surfing" on waves left behind from upstream neighbors to save energy by following them along their course. This results in less effort being expended on energy-expending processes by each fish individual in turn, thus saving energy expenditure.
Swarms of fish provide protection for each other by creating an invisible shield from predators; this is particularly effective for small species like Danios and Discus that are more vulnerable than larger fish such as Tunas and Sharks.
Schooling may provide protection to young fish until they have achieved adult coloration and can defend against attacks from larger fish. Schooling also has the potential to improve spawning success by providing a secure environment in which eggs may develop successfully.
Ghost shrimp make an excellent addition to a home aquarium. As scavenger feeders, they spend most of their time searching the tank substrate for food particles lodged between plant leaves or roots or on the bottom surface - their small size makes them suitable for smaller community tanks with appropriate fish companions.
Ghost shrimp are easy to care for and have a lifespan of approximately one year, as they are hardy creatures capable of withstanding much stress. Since they shed their exoskeletons regularly, the tank must provide plenty of smooth decorations and crevices where ghost shrimp can safely hide from larger predatory fish species.
Ghost shrimps make excellent companions. As opposed to many crustaceans, ghost shrimps do not exhibit territorial behavior or show aggression towards other aquatic life forms, making them suitable for keeping with peaceful community fish species such as Livebearers, Tetras, Rasboras and Danios. Cichlid species should also be kept alongside ghost shrimp but should never be combined with aggressive species like sharks or large predatory species.
Female birds that are ready to breed will display what's known as "berried," which looks like a cluster of green berries on the underside of their tails. She then releases pheromones that attract males who can fertilize her eggs.
For optimal ghost shrimp breeding, an additional tank should be purchased to house their eggs and spawn. While not required to be as large, this second tank should feature a sponge filter instead of power filters to avoid sucking up too many of your young shrimp and killing them off prematurely.
Crayfish are known to feed on whatever material lands at the bottom of rivers and streams, or is washed downstream by fast currents. They consume algae that grows on rocks or debris found within their environment as well as decayed plant or animal matter that gets washed downstream; some aquarium owners have even reported sightings of crayfish eating small fish from their aquarium tanks!
Home owners can feed crayfish a wide range of foods, including fresh vegetables such as romaine lettuce and mashed peas, as well as frozen fish food pellets, bloodworms, brine shrimp and daphnia. While protein may not be essential, adding some will help the animal build its exoskeleton which then sheds as they grow and is then reabsorbed back into their bodies.
Crayfish tend to be nocturnal creatures that do not like being handled, so feedings should take place only at night and they should have ample opportunity to rest during the day in their aquarium. Be careful when handling crayfish - their heads contain vital nerves which should never be touched! Hold them by their claws instead and wear thick gloves when handling one.
Crayfish tend not to consume fish kept in an aquarium, however this could happen if it's an extremely slow moving species such as an anemone or shrimp. This depends on several factors including tank size and number of inhabitants as well as species kept.
Guppies are some of the most captivating aquarium fish today, offering easy breeding and an array of vibrant colors that makes them a welcome addition to any home aquarium. To provide them with optimal care, however, it's essential that you understand their various varieties as they differ significantly between them all.
Guppies have an extremely rapid reproductive rate, with females producing 50 fry (baby fish) per month on average. This rapid reproduction leads to many different varieties with intricate color patterns and markings; but in order to create specific color strains you should breed two fish that already exhibit those desired traits together - this will guarantee all the fry produced will possess those traits as well.
Notable Fact: Guppy colors and patterns depend on both dominant and recessive genes interacting, like in the case of the mutt dog. Furthermore, patterns or colors may appear differently between males and females.
Guppies can be easily identified by their dorsal fin, which often trails or flows behind them when swimming. Male guppies also possess an additional feature called the gonopodium on their anal fin near their tail - this modified fin has narrower and pointier finlets compared to its fan-shaped anal counterpart of females; male guppies additionally boast darker spots on their caudal fin, which extends away from their body.
Losing fish to water changes can be heartbreaking for aquarium owners. Yet many deaths can be avoided by understanding what can go wrong during water changes and taking precautions against it. Temperature shock is a leading cause of fish deaths after changes, and thermometers can easily help you ensure that both tank waters have identical temperatures when switching tanks over. Other potential causes for death after changes include pH shock, ammonia shock and osmotic shock - so taking steps like these to ensure fish survive is also key in order to minimize mortality rates after changing tank waters!
Aquarium fish have the ability to adapt to changes gradually, yet sudden shifts from their previous environment may shock and stress them out, potentially leading to death. Therefore, it's crucial that you understand how osmotic and pH stresses arise so you can ensure your aquarium fish are adapting successfully in their new tanks.
Be sure to match the temperature before adding new fish from a pet store that have been stored at different temperatures their entire lives, to your aquarium. Furthermore, always use quality water conditioners such as API Water conditioner, AmQuel or Ammolock during this process as these will help remove chlorine and ammonia from the tank water, helping ensure healthy fish without shock shock!
The Balloon Molly is an attractive, easy to care for fish that thrives in an aquarium with live plants. Mollies are shoaling fish, meaning that they prefer living together rather than alone, which may make your tank feel more alive while also supporting their health and well being. How many should be kept together depends on both their size and needs.
An ideal tank size for mollies is 30 gallons (114 litres, 25 imperial gallons). Anything smaller would not provide them with enough space in their natural habitat - rivers and streams in which there's ample swimming room. A cramped environment causes stress while weakening immunity - while they require hiding spaces to feel secure in their ideal surroundings.
As with most tropical fish, mollies can benefit from having some salt added to their tank water. A teaspoon per 5 gallons will help them retain moisture and avoid dehydration; additionally they prefer an slightly higher pH level of around 7. If you are planning on breeding your molly, set up a separate breeding tank as female mollies store sperm before gestating; you can check her abdomen for swelling or check near her anal fin for dark spots to determine pregnancy. Once she gives birth it is important that the female is removed from her main tank as male adults can cannibalize her fry.
Loss of color in betta fishes is often indicative of something more serious going wrong, and should prompt us to investigate further. Loss of pigment may be related to water parameters, diet or stress as well as illness or injuries.
One of the primary factors causing betta fish to lose its colors is disease or parasite infestation, like Ich (Ichthyophthirius multifilis). Unfortunately, this can lead to serious color loss and even death; however, treatment options exist which include anti-ich medications and treatments such as bath salts.
Color can also fade in a betta due to nutrient deficiency. To combat this problem, make sure that their diet includes foods rich in nutrient-dense yellow, orange, and red pigments; try offering fresh or frozen food and soak freeze-dried treats before giving them to them.
Stressful environments or injuries, and aggressive behaviors from tankmates may cause your betta to turn white or black, potentially due to changes in their environment, injury, or aggressive behaviors from another. You can help ensure this doesn't happen by keeping their aquarium properly maintained with ample food sources and low stress environments, along with providing early treatment of any symptoms related to stress before they get worse - giving your betta the best chance at recovering its vibrant colors once it recovers!
Goldfish Diet Although goldfish can survive on food such as flakes and pellets, their health depends on consuming plenty of fresh fruits and vegetables for fiber intake. Oranges provide them with plenty of vitamin C while strawberries deliver lots of polyphenols and manganese - not forgetting cucumbers which provide lots of potassium as well as helping prevent kidney stones! Raspberries deliver even more antioxidants for optimal heart health!
Kale and lettuce provide goldfish with essential nutritional elements. Both species provide iron and folic acid as well as various other vitamins and minerals, while red lettuce in particular offers plenty of beta-carotene which helps support its immune system.
Carrots are another delicious treat for goldfish. Not only are they rich in essential nutrients, but their carotene content helps bring out their brilliant colors! For optimal results, it is best to steam or boil carrots prior to feeding them to your goldfish as this will soften them while eliminating any potential bacteria present.
Goldfish can make excellent filters, but it's wise to be wary about what they consume. Crackers are not recommended due to their potential to expand in their stomach and block vital passageways; bread contains yeast that could trigger digestive issues in goldfish.
How often you feed your goldfish will depend on various factors. A general guideline for feeding is providing them with enough food that they can consume in two minutes (with the exception of veggies which take much longer to digest). Feeding too frequently could clog up their filter system and lead to overcrowding or waste accumulation in their tank, and harm them as a result.
The amount of food you should provide your goldfish depends on their diet type. Goldfish fed flakes or pellets should only be fed twice per day or less as these rich foods can lead to problems, including swim bladder disorder in fancy varieties. It can also lead to constipation, food impaction in their digestive tract and even lead to fatty liver disease - manifesting in cloudy spots on their fins that is typically caused by stress, poor water quality or eating too much food.
Goldfish that are fed a balanced, low-fat ration can be fed up to three times per day for optimal weight management and avoid overfeeding. As they age or require extra food for growth, the frequency of feedings should decrease accordingly. In cooler months it is advisable for outdoor hibernators fish that will only need food once or twice per week as their metabolism slows down considerably and their metabolism cannot process as much food at once.
