The electric yellow cichlid, also known as yellow lab cichlid (Labidochromis caeruleus), is an attractive and intriguing fish found in Lake Malawi in Africa. Part of a group known as Mbuna species that are exclusive to this unique area between East African Rift and Indian Ocean Rift systems.

As with other Mbuna species, electric yellow cichlids need a large tank. To replicate its natural habitat on rocky shores in its wild home, plenty of rocks and caves should be added in your aquarium environment for this shy fish to retreat into; hardy plants should also be included for additional cover and visual barriers. Aquarium water pH should ideally range between 7.5-8.5 for best conditions although these fish are still fairly hardy creatures and will generally adapt over time to changes.

Although not generally aggressive, electric yellow cichlids should be housed with other peaceful or semi-aggressive community fish such as Mbuna species. Predatory or aggressive species should not be kept together; as this would increase competition for food and mates; additionally they have shown some aggression toward snails and crabs in the past.

Electric Yellow Cichlids are mouthbrooders that are easy to keep in a home aquarium, providing ample opportunity for breeding. Their diet should consist of both vegetable matter and protein-based foods; to provide greens they should receive algae flakes or pellets (those containing spirulina are best) along with cooked spinach, lettuce and peas from your kitchen as well as live or frozen bloodworms and brine shrimp as proteins - do not overfeed as this may cause obesity as well as reduce water quality in their tank!

As with any tankmates, your betta and shrimp's relationship will depend on each fish's temperament and environment in which it lives. Under ideal conditions such as providing ample hiding spots and providing balanced diets for both species, betta and shrimp coexist without issues.

Cherry shrimp (Palaemonetes paludosus) are an ideal option for beginning aquarists because of their nearly transparent nature and natural camouflage that helps them blend in seamlessly with tank water, making it harder for your betta fish to detect them. Furthermore, cherry shrimps tend to be less costly than other shrimp species and highly compatible with betta fish species.

Bamboo shrimp (Atyopsis spinipes) are another excellent option, especially for beginning aquarists. Their wood-like design blends in well with natural settings of your tank, while their relatively large size won't attract your Bettafish and their scavenging nature can keep the tank clean by eating away at any discarded food, plant matter or detritus that comes into your environment.

These shrimps can be more difficult to feed your betta than usual as they must first be soaked for 20 minutes in water before feeding to them. As this may cause constipation in their digestive systems, only provide this meal once or twice weekly for your betta's wellbeing.

Amano shrimp (Palaemonetes gillatus) make excellent starter aquarium inhabitants because of their similarity to bamboo shrimp but larger size and peaceful disposition; these creatures won't disturb or compete for food with your betta tank inhabitants.

Vampire crabs are an intriguing and captivating species, and have become increasingly popular as pets in recent years. Belonging to the genus Geosesarma and native to Asia (particularly Indonesia), these crustaceans can be seen both on land and water - inhabiting both rocky outcrops as well as dense foliage around freshwater lakes and rivers. Their vivid coloring ranges from purple, orange and yellow hues ranging to red hues; their wild counterparts feed off plant and animal detritus while captivity residents should provide both live food as well as frozen foods for optimal performance.

Bloodworms, brine shrimp, earthworms, crickets and grasshoppers are among the many foods consumed by crabs as omnivorous animals. Additionally, vegetables like spinach and nettles offer excellent sources of calcium that contributes to maintaining their carapace. Flakes, algae wafers and specialty crab pellets may also be eaten regularly by them.

As with other crustaceans, vampire crabs undergo a process known as molting when their bodies outgrow their current exoskeleton, forcing them to shed and form a new one. Unfortunately, during this period the crabs become very vulnerable, often retreating into hidden areas until their new shell has completely formed.

These animals are generally easy to care for, and can be kept either individually or in groups. While vampire crabs can sometimes become aggressive toward one another, they generally coexist peacefully with fish and aquatic plants. As with other freshwater crabs, vampire crabs are susceptible to many of the same diseases affecting fish.

Mollies are among the most beloved aquarium fish, and with good reason. Not only are they entertaining to watch, they make excellent companions and their short lifespan allows you to spend lots of time learning while also spending quality time with them as a beginner. Furthermore, their care requirements are relatively straightforward as most varieties only require a large tank (often over 30 gallons) with plenty of rocks, plants and hiding spaces as well as food that's affordable but easy to prepare.

Molly fish provide an incredible diversity in terms of both morphology and natural habitat (ranging from inland mud swamps to coastal lagoons). Coloration is separate from finnage inheritance, giving you even more breeding options - you could breed one with nearly any fin shape you can think of! Additionally, Mollienesia contains two complexes ( sailfins and shortfins ), each comprising multiple races which further expand upon fin shape diversity.

Mollies are freshwater community fish that should be kept in tanks with other members of their species, most cichlids, and catfish species. For best results it is best not to keep them with fish with long flowing fins as these could be nibbled by Mollies. Furthermore, high concentrations of salt will prove too much for their kidneys; to help the Mollies flourish it's crucial that water in your tank remain at subtropical temperatures with an efficient heater installed for best results.

Shrimp are great tank mates for betta fish, adding vibrant hues and colour to any aquarium. Not only are they hardy and simple to care for - in the wild they consume algae and decaying organic matter while in an aquarium environment you can feed commercial food pellets or blanched vegetables to them as food sources. As they're generally peaceful creatures they also make a good addition to freshwater fish and invertebrate communities although their size could cause them to be seen as prey by hungry bettas; just keep an eye out if very small ones make sure not too many make an appearance!

Some shrimp varieties such as the amano and cherry varieties can better hide from aggressive bettas than others; however, you should still gradually introduce your pet fish and any new tankmates gradually. Make sure there are sufficient hiding spaces and enough room in the tank so they don't become acquainted too quickly with each other; initially there may be some flaring, flaring, and nibbling between them as they get acquainted but this should eventually subside once they feel secure around each other.

Bettas are territorial and natural predators in their wild environments, fighting aggressively over territories to attract female bettas, with males sparring to get closer to females by spreading out fins and flaring gills to look larger while nibbling at one another's fins until one fish has been defeated. Unfortunately, this behavior can harm other fish in your tank, including shrimp; furthermore it may result in aggressive attacks upon newcomers to your aquarium or eating them outright - certainly something you do not wish upon your pet; therefore providing enrichment activities will keep boredom at bay and help ensure less aggressive attacks towards newcomers!

Answering the question, "do betta fish require sunlight?" is yes; however, there are certain key details you must keep in mind before exposing your betta to sunlight.

First and foremost, keep in mind that bettas are diurnal fish. This means they are most active during the daytime hours and prefer light sources that reflect their natural habitat, such as subdued lighting, indirect illumination from overhead branches or plants, or diffused through water surfaces. Direct sunlight should be avoided as it will heat the water up quickly while depriving it of oxygen, leading to stress or death in your betta fish.

Overly stimulating lighting conditions can overstimulate betta fish, putting them at greater risk for illness - this may range from simple bacterial infections to more serious conditions like septicemia or tuberculosis. Stressed bettas will become less likely to eat and their immune systems weaken over time as their defenses weaken further.

As a rule, aim to maintain a daily light cycle with 12 hours of darkness and 8 hours of light; this will replicate their natural habitat's light cycles and promote their health. Without an ideal lighting regimen in place, bettas may stop eating regularly, lose color pigmentation from their scales, become dull in coloration over time, and may affect their spawning behavior negatively.

Snails can be invaluable to an aquarium ecosystem, eating algae and organic debris while cleaning the substrate. Unfortunately, some species reproduce rapidly and can quickly take over a tank - an unplanned snail outbreak is usually an indicator of less-than-ideal conditions, making its control even more challenging once established.

Freshwater aquarium snails tend to be scavengers that consume anything that comes within their range, from dead fish, extra food for other fish and plants, even algae. Most are compatible with most freshwater species and thrive under most standard parameters.

Bladder Snails (Achatinella gracilis) are among the most widely known aquarium snails, being smaller than most scavengers at about an inch and olive-green to speckled brown in color. You can usually find these snails at most pet stores and they are considered safe with most aquarium plants - making them a popular choice as they will clean out your tank's corners while turning over substrate regularly to mix in mulch for plant growth and prevent cyanobacteria build-up - as well as having low toxicity levels and being very hardy creatures!

Ramshorn Snails (Melanoides tuberculata) are another popular aquarium snail species. As with the Bladder Snail, these hermaphrodite snails reproduce at will and may become favorites of some aquarists due to their striking shell shapes and various color options; others, however, consider them nuisance species due to their appetite for soft algae or dead plant matter that they chow down on. In order to control their numbers effectively it's best to refrain from overfeeding them while scraping sides or vacuuming substrate as they will quickly devour any soft algae or dead plant matter they find available; keeping these numbers down means avoiding overfeeding them by cutting back or scraping sides and vacuuming substrate as much as possible as well as cleaning detritus away as possible from both sides or by vacuuming up all sides or vacuuming up detritus from vacuuming the substrate regularly!

Roseline sharks, commonly known as "dither fish", typically reach four or five inches long and make for an eye-catching addition to any freshwater aquarium. With their swift movements and bright coloring, these hardy little guys often become known as "dither fish." Preferring water with pH between 6.5-7.5 for optimal conditions (dGH should range between 8-12), roseline sharks make an eye-catching and colorful addition that requires no hard or soft conditions; thus making for great tank inhabitants! They thrive even in tanks as large as 50 gallons and provide plenty of hiding places - making these hardy enough for survival! Hardy enough even for tanks as large as 50 gallons with plenty of hiding places - making these hardy marine inhabitants very hardy creatures. Very hardy indeed; can survive in tanks as large as 50 gallons with plenty of hiding places! These hardy survivors need not hard or soft water conditions (dGH range of 8-12).

As is true of most freshwater aquarium fish species, its best to simulate their natural habitat as much as possible in your tank. This means providing shelter from bright lights as well as maintaining highly oxygenated water by including plenty of rocks and dense vegetation as well as having a strong current to provide shade from harsh lights and increase oxygenation levels in the tank.

Frozen foods tend to provide more nutrition. Roseline sharks in nature eat aquatic insects, seaweed, and mosquito larvae. In captivity they tend to be omnivorous fish eaters; eating tropical flakes, pellets and live foods such as brine shrimp bloodworms daphnias pieces of fresh green algae are just a few examples of what these fish eat!

These stunning fish belong to the Cyprinidae family and earn their shark name due to a short red stripe on top of a longer black line that runs horizontally along their bodies. Native of Western India, where fast-flowing rivers and pools with thick vegetation host them; schooling fish that appreciate living alongside other sharks as part of an established shoal.

Male crowntail betta fish add flair and visual interest to any aquarium, though it should be kept isolated unless breeding conditions arise. These natural born fighters will tear, bite, push, and bully any tank mates that cross their path; even smaller tank mates could potentially become victims due to trailing fins!

Crowntails are one of the most widely available varieties of "Siamese fighting fish" available at pet stores, often used as fighting fish for combat sports like boxing or fighting in water tanks. Though similar in appearance, crowntails stand out with their distinctive caudal fin that features spiked fin rays for added spikiness reminiscent of an almost comb-like shape and reduced webbing between fin rays giving this variety their crowntail name.

These fish can reach 2.5 inches in length and come in an array of vibrant hues - shimmering blues, fiery reds and even dark shades of green with metallic shimmer are among their many hues. Males tend to display more vivid hues compared to their counterparts while both will still feature those distinctive fins that create that spiky, separate appearance.

Although Crowntail Betta fish are one of the most sought-after species of betta fish, novice owners should wait at least two years of experience before adding one to your aquarium. As these aggressive creatures tend to fin rot easily, keeping clean water is key and an easier task with larger tanks; you should change out its contents once every two days while feeding your betta once daily with freeze-dried bloodworms or brine shrimp treats as rewards for good behavior.

Red zebra cichlids are exquisite fish that make an eye-catching addition to any aquarium, attracting attention with their vibrant hues and bold personalities. Although these charismatic fish require special care to maintain their vibrant hues and vibrant coloration, for optimal success it is important that you provide an environment similar to Lake Malawi in which these beautiful specimens live, including spacious tanks with strategically placed rocks for them to live happily ever after.

As with other mbunas, red zebras can be quite aggressive and territorial fish; this aggression typically is directed at other males in an aquarium rather than other cichlid species. Maintaining an aquarium that includes both females and males will help minimize aggression towards other cichlids. Keeping these fish together in groups will reduce any aggression towards other cichlids.

Red zebra cichlids exhibit an affinity for rearrange substrate pebbles, small plants and other aquarium decor to maximize comfort in their aquarium environment. While this behavior is normal and beneficial for fish comfort in general, red zebra cichlids tend to do it much more often than other freshwater aquarium fish species.

Rift lake biomes provide ideal environments for red zebra cichlid fish to flourish, since their natural environment consists of rocks with sandy bottoms. To recreate this ecosystem in an aquarium setting, add medium to large rocks to provide hiding spaces for these aquatic inhabitants. You will also want to place one or more rock formations directly under a light source in order to promote algae growth, and ensure there are numerous caves within your tank for them.

African Cichlids are beautiful, vibrant fish that will add vibrant color and charm to your aquarium. Easy to care for, African cichlids can help bring life and character to your tank without being an additional burden. However, their aggressive tendencies may make keeping multiple tanks with these fish difficult; nonetheless it may still be possible with suitable tank conditions and compatible fish species.

African cichlids tend to be territorial fish that do not tolerate being overcrowded with tank mates easily, therefore usually only flourishing in an aquarium with their species of counterpart. With some effort and diligence it may be possible to successfully house African cichlids alongside other fish species; this article provides tips on selecting suitable tankmates for African cichlids.

Ideal tank mates for African cichlids should include species that thrive in water conditions similar to their aquatic environment in Africa. Furthermore, an ideal partner must withstand aggressive behaviour of your African cichlids while being capable of protecting itself if attacked by more ferocious fish species.

Peacock cichlids, hap cichlids, and electric blue hap cichlids are popular tank mate choices for African cichlids. In addition, dwarf cichlids may become aggressive so should only be kept in very large aquariums. Scavenger catfish make an excellent option as they prefer staying close to the bottom of an aquarium while staying out of reach from other fish that prefer swimming higher up in the water column.

Ammonia can be extremely dangerous to fish and, if left unchecked, can kill them quickly. It is produced as part of natural biological processes including decomposition of uneaten fish food and waste in an aquarium's biofilter system, but when functioning normally its levels remain relatively low thanks to beneficial bacteria colonies converting the ammonia into other forms for safe conversion into biofilter substrate. If that cycle becomes disrupted however, ammonia levels will surge within your aquarium's environment.

There are multiple strategies you can employ in an emergency to remove ammonia from your fish tank quickly and effectively, while you investigate and address its source. One effective method is conducting a 40% to 50% water change which will dilute ammonia levels while providing your fish with fresh, clean water to breathe in.

Seachem Prime can help reduce ammonia levels in your tank by binding and changing it to ammonium, which is less toxic to fish. Be sure to read and heed its directions closely for optimal results.

Your other option is to decrease the number of fish in your aquarium. This will lower fish waste that's producing ammonia and nitrite; thus preventing an ammonia spike from happening altogether.

Maintain your aquarium by performing regular partial water changes and filter cleanings in order to reduce ammonia levels. By sticking to an active maintenance schedule, ammonia levels should remain lower while making any potential issues more easily manageable.